Home Servicing
Servicing Your MG T-Series
A basic home-service guide, task by task, written for someone attempting each job for the first time.
A basic service is well within the reach of a careful home mechanic, and doing it yourself is one of the best ways to get to know your car. This section breaks a basic service into individual tasks, each written for someone attempting it for the first time. None of it is complicated — but a T-Series is a 60–70-year-old car, so take your time, work safely, and where a figure matters, confirm it against your own handbook or workshop manual.
Service intervals
Indicative — your handbook's schedule is the reference.
| Interval | Tasks |
|---|---|
| Weekly / every ~250 miles | Check engine oil level, coolant level, tyres. |
| Every 1,000–3,000 miles | Engine oil & filter change (with classic oils and low annual mileage, many owners change annually regardless of miles); check/top up gearbox and rear-axle oil; attend to the chassis grease points. |
| Annually / ~3,000 miles | Full basic service, oil & filter, clean/regap or renew spark plugs, clean and re-oil the air filter, check coolant strength, check ignition and tappets (see Tuning), check brakes. |
| Every 2–3 years | Renew coolant; renew gearbox and rear-axle oil; renew brake fluid. |
Tools & consumables
- Trolley jack and axle stands (never work under a car supported only by a jack); wheel chocks.
- Oil drain pan, funnel, absorbent roll, nitrile gloves, rags.
- Correct spanners/sockets — note the T-Series is largely Whitworth/BSF (and BA), not metric or AF, so the right spanners matter; screwdriver set.
- Feeler gauges, spark-plug spanner, torque wrench.
- Consumables: 20W/50 classic engine oil, oil filter element (or spin-on), correct gearbox/axle oils, spark plugs, air-filter oil, antifreeze, new drain-plug washers, SU damper oil.
Maintenance schedule
Each task mapped to a baseline interval, with an adjustment for how the car is used. Low-mileage, garage-kept cars can lean on the time-based column; cars driven hard, in wet weather, on salted roads or on long tours should follow the "harder use" column.
| Task | Baseline interval | Harder use / adverse conditions |
|---|---|---|
| Engine oil & filter | 3,000 miles or annually, whichever comes first | 1,500–2,000 miles for short trips, dusty lanes, rallying or sustained high-rpm touring |
| Spark plugs, clean & regap | Every 3,000 miles | Read/clean every 1,500 miles if the car runs rich, is used for short trips, or lives on ethanol-blended pump fuel |
| Spark plugs, renew | Every 6,000–10,000 miles | Sooner if plug-reading shows fouling, oil-loading or eroded electrodes |
| Gearbox oil (GL-4) | Check level every 1,000 miles; renew every 2–3 years or 6,000 miles | Renew annually for high-mileage touring or trailered competition use |
| Rear-axle oil (EP 90) | Check level every 1,000 miles; renew every 2–3 years or 6,000 miles | Renew after any deep-water crossing or if the axle has been submerged |
| Air filter, clean & re-oil | Every 3,000 miles | Every 1,000 miles on dusty roads, gravel events or dry summer touring |
| Coolant, check strength | Every spring and autumn | Before any long tour, and before the first hard frost |
| Coolant, renew | Every 2 years | Annually if the system has been disturbed, topped up with plain water, or shows any rust bloom in the header |
| Chassis greasing | Every 1,000 miles | Every 500 miles in wet weather; after every rally or wet weekend; always after washing the underside |
| Brake fluid (DOT 4) | Every 2 years | Annually for cars used in humid climates, stored without a dehumidifier, or driven hard in the hills |
"Harder use" means any of: frequent short trips (engine not reaching full temperature), wet-weather or winter use, salted roads, dusty or gravel roads, sustained high-rpm touring, rallying, or long periods of storage without a dehumidifier.
The tasks
Engine
Changing the engine oil & filter
Warm-drain the sump, renew the filter (canister element or spin-on), refill to the dipstick with a classic 20W/50, and dispose of the waste properly.
Read the guide →
Ignition
Changing the spark plugs
Read the old plugs for a health check, gap the new ones correctly, and start each by hand to protect the alloy head, the simplest tune-up job on the car.
Read the guide →
Transmission
Changing the gearbox oil
Yellow-metal-safe API GL-4 only (never GL-5 in the gearbox). Level the car, open the filler first, drain, and fill to the level plug.
Read the guide →
Transmission
Changing the rear-axle oil
A hypoid EP 90 oil for the axle, different spec to the gearbox. Level the car, drain, and fill to the level plug.
Read the guide →
Induction
Cleaning the air filter
The oil-wetted wire-gauze filter is cleaned and re-oiled, not replaced. Wash in paraffin, dry, re-oil lightly, over-oiling richens the mixture.
Read the guide →
Cooling
Coolant, check, top up & renew
Only ever open the system cold. A 50/50 traditional IAT ethylene-glycol mix; renew every two years; toxic waste, dispose responsibly.
Read the guide →
Chassis
Chassis greasing
Trunnions, king-pins, propshaft, steering and handbrake, a few minutes with a grease gun every 1,000 miles keeps the running gear alive.
Read the guide →
Brakes
Renewing the brake fluid
Brake fluid absorbs moisture, renew every two years. Bleed furthest-from-master first, keep the reservoir topped up, and never mix DOT 4 and DOT 5 silicone.
Read the guide →
Bodywork
Chrome & brightwork
Telling surface-rust bloom from real pitting, why a cover can cause condensation, the gentle clean-and-wax routine, and when a piece genuinely needs re-chroming.
Read the guide →
Storage
Winter storage
Garage, cover or Carcoon compared, and the hour of preparation, oil, coolant, stabilised fuel, battery, tyres, brakes, damp and vermin, that saves a spring of grief.
Read the guide →
Winter use
Driving a T-Type through the winter
The honest scope for an open car with sidescreens, why washing off road salt beats any product, what the ash frame changes, and the underbody coatings compared without a sales pitch.
Read the guide →
Storage
Storage humidity and dehumidifiers
On an ash-framed car the lower humidity bound matters as much as the upper one: the published bands compared, desiccant against compressor in a cold garage, the floor, and the battery.
Read the guide →
Recommissioning
Recommissioning after a long layup
Waking a barn-find TC, TD or TF safely: assess before you turn anything, drain the stale fuel, rebuild the hydraulics, pre-oil the engine, and the first-start sequence.
Read the guide →
Related reading
Fluids
Fuel, Oil & Additives
Ethanol, ZDDP and the right grades for XPAG/XPEG engines.
Tuning Guide
The Tuning cluster
Ignition, timing, SU carburettors — where servicing ends and tuning begins.
From the Workshop
TF1500 health-check: overcharging & rich-running case study
A real-world example of what plug-reading, charging checks and a careful service pick up.