Engine & Mechanical

Chassis Lubrication: The Grease Points and the Schedule

BeginnerNothing keeps a T-Series steering sweet and its running gear tight like regular greasing. The car was built to be greased often, at a couple of dozen points around the chassis — the cheapest, most valuable half-hour of maintenance you can give it. Here is the how, the what and the how-often.

Nothing keeps a T-Series steering sweet and its running gear tight like regular greasing — and nothing wears them out faster than neglect. The car was designed to be greased often, with a gun and a rag, at a couple of dozen points around the chassis. It is the cheapest, most valuable half-hour of maintenance you can give it. Here is where the points are, what to use and how often.

Why it matters

The T-Series predates sealed-for-life joints. Its king pins, shackles, steering joints and universal joints all rely on you pushing fresh grease in regularly to flush out the old, keep water out and hold wear at bay. Worn king pins in particular mean steering play, uneven tyre wear and an MOT failure — and they wear fast when dry. A greasing routine is the single best thing you can do to make the running gear last.

How often

The factory schedule calls for greasing roughly every 1,000 miles. Because few T-Types cover big annual mileages, that usually works out as "before every major run, and at least at every oil change." When in doubt, grease it: you cannot easily over-grease these points, and any excess simply purges out of the joint.

Where the points are

Exact numbers vary by model, but the T-Series has around twenty grease nipples. The important groups:

AreaPoints
Front suspensionThe king pins / swivel pins — the critical ones — plus the spring shackles and eyes
SteeringThe tie-rod and drag-link ball joints
TransmissionThe propshaft universal joints and the sliding (slip) joint
Brakes & controlsThe handbrake cable and linkage pivots, and the pedal shaft

Work methodically around the car so none are missed — a chalk mark or a checklist helps. Pump each nipple until fresh grease just appears at the joint.

What to use

A general-purpose lithium chassis grease suits almost all the nipples. A few points want oil rather than grease — traditionally the dynamo rear bearing and the distributor take a drop or two of engine oil, not grease — so check your handbook before reaching for the gun everywhere.

Do not forget the oils

Greasing is only half of it. While you are underneath, check and top up the separate oil levels:

  • The gearbox and the rear axle, each with its own filler/level plug and its own oil.
  • The SU carburettor dashpots, which need a few drops of the correct oil to damp the pistons.
  • And the engine oil itself — the oil-pressure gauge is your best guide to engine health once it is topped up.

Always confirm the exact points, intervals and lubricant grades against your car's own handbook, as they differ between the TC, TD and TF.

*Written for the T-Series Archive. Grease points, intervals and grades vary by model — check them against your own handbook.*